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I n our first article we want to show how to create a number of rust effects that would not only be seen on a tank or armoured vehicle, but would also be seen on huge variety of vehicles, machines, and equipment made from iron or steel. For us this is perfect because we can be creative with both the camouflage and weathering as this vehicle never actually existed! Our idea is to depict the vehicle after test and evaluation and the vehicle now sits abandoned and neglected in the backyard of the Porsche factory.
In very little time, the condition of the paintwork would start to deteriorate and rusting would soon take place. Here we offer a comprehensive guide to creating these effects. This matt coat will prevent the Worn Effects Fluid from being reactivated by the White spirit used for streaking effects.
The Streaking Grime will tone and unify the base colours and add subtle streaking effects to all the sloped and vertical surfaces. This colour is perfect for simulating bare metal where it has been exposed to the elements. The grime is worked into the edges and also allowed to pool in certain areas to create a random natural effect.
Make sure the tape is lined up perfectly with the edge of the deck area. Poor masking can spoil the whole effect! Notice that the streaking grime effects are still visible through the LifeColor paint. Keeping the paint mix thin and the air pressure low on our compressor will offer the greatest control of these colours.
We then follow this by spraying on a small amount of Rust Dark Shadow. This is focused on only the front edge and right hand corner of the deck area. This will simulate where the rainwater has collected mostly in this corner due to the vehicle being parked on sloping ground.
If you only drag the wash downward or use too much pressure, you will remove it all and will have to start again. It is important take into consideration the story we are trying to tell with the model.
We need to remember how old the vehicle is, what it has been used for, and whether it is in service or abandoned. These can also be softened and blended with a clean brush and White Spirit.
Moving to the turret roof, we can now add individual rust streaks to the chips we added earlier. It is important to get these lines parallel. If they are at different angles on the same surface it will look unnatural.
This is achieved by applying a little more pressure with the brush toward the bottom of the brush stroke. This may take a bit of practice to perfect. In these views of the completed model we can see that all the effects used are combined to make a truly eye catching model. Scratchmod T he technique shown here is just one of many different ways to create raw steel effects. The technique described here can be altered to suit the situation for many types of modelling projects.
This is always done after applying a coat of primer to be sure the plastic is covered and sealed. First dip the sponge in some of the paint, then remove the excess on a paper towel; otherwise we will end up with large blobs of paint on the surface instead of a chipping effect.
This effect can be varied from panel to panel to help create the effect that vehicle is made from individual steel plates. Once dry, more sponge chipping can be added. To chip the paint we simply wet the surface with warm tap water and let it soften the paint.
A variety of old stiff-bristled brushes are used to scrub and dab the surface to create the chipping effects in the light grey areas. This is faster to apply and easier to control on smaller areas. The two round access plates are also painted in a red primer colour to add even more visual interest. A wash of enamel Light Rust will add softer tones to this rust effect and will also help unify the airbrushed and brush painted rust marks.
This was due to the high Nickel content of the welding rods used during the construction of the real vehicle. These will all help bring the model to life.
All of the realistic weathering effects used on this Mine Roller will be covered in detail in future issues. This is sprayed on using an airbrush. The ts can a is that the Worn Effects ore be easily applied in a more controlled way.
Remem-ber the more coats of Worn Fluid that are applied the greater the chipping effect will be. This colour will help represent the areas of steel that have not rusted. The trick behind painting rust with acrylics is to have the surface dampened with water before starting to apply the paint.
The wet surface helps to blend and thin the acrylic paint for a natural effect. It is important that the graphite powder is only applied to the areas not covered by rust. This is very effective when replicating the marks left when steel plates have been placed on top of another during outside storage before being used in the factory.
The same Vallejo rust colors that 16 T were used on the armour plates will be perfect for recreate realistic rust effects on the tracks as well. If using enamel washes over enamel paints then the model must allowed to dry fully for a couple of days before attempting to apply these washes.
A dark brown pinwash can be added to highlight the texture of the welds. For example, the modeller will have to weather many carriages and wagons to complete a particular train. Also, these items will receive much more handling than a static model, this means regular weathering products such as pigments would get worn away after the carriages have been picked up a few times. Pigments can be sealed in with matt varnish, but these tend to darken or reduce the pigment and spoil the final look.
Our idea is to show a method of producing a nicely weathered American railroad boxcar that will not take frequentt hantoo long to finish and will be resistant to frequen dling and look great on any railway layout.
John Murphy This is how clean the boxcar looks out of the box from the manufacturer. Some model railway companies do supply rolling stock pre-weathered, but to be honest they look like they have just been airbrushed with some brown paint randomly around the lower sides and look unrealistic. This is thinned with Humbrol Enamel thinner and misted over the undersides and lower sides of the bodywork. Here we can see the streaking effect as the White Spirit evaporates. As we can see, the heavier streaks remain along the bottom of the boxcar.
The vertical frames have been masked off and a piece of sponge carrying a small amount of paint can be carefully dabbed onto these frames. Here masking tape has been applied to create horizontal areas of rust. Compared to some reference photos this rust damage is quite restrained! A sponge was chosen, as it would not cover the silver completely in the same way as if a brush had been used.
The sponge also adds a little texture to the effect. The drying time of the wash can be reduced by using a hairdryer on a low heat setting. This is added mainly to the bolted panel joints and the recessed channels on each panel. This was washed into the recesses of the end panels. It was also added as a pin wash to details on the lower sections of the sides.
If we loose patience and start to rush this part, the chips and scratches will look too large and spoil the effect. Heavily effected by corrosion, ships will very quickly show heavy signs of rust stains and streaking rust.
Here we will explore some techniques used to paint the unique rusting that occurs on ships. These colours can be used individually or mixed to create varied tones. These are then blended to create a natural effect. We can see the difference between the blended rust at the top compared with the unblended still being applied.
This heavy rust effect would happen in only a short time on warships operating in the harsh conditions of the Baltic or North Atlantic during WWII. These are also softened and blended using a brush dampened with White Spirit. Also of interest is the patchy worn paint on the grey and red areas of the hull. Scratchmod I n this guide we will explain how to create textured rust using pigments, acrylic paints and stiff brushes.
This technique is perfect for creating heavily rusted vehicles, but instead of using the new chipping fluids, or hairspray and salt, which are used in combination with water to remove the top layer of paint to create chips and scratches in the surface, this effect relies on the paint being scrubbed off of the unstable pigment underneath the top layer For this feature we will be using an old turret from a U.
M26 Pershing tank with a faded green as the camouflage colour. This technique is obviously not limited to just green and will in fact give even better results on a German dark yellow or Gulf War desert sand coloured vehicle for example.
This is then painted onto the surface of the model using a large brush. Different shades of rust pigment can be used during this process to vary the effect. Instead of using water to remove the paint to create chipping and exposed rusty metal, we just use various stiff brushes, including worn out wire brushes and even a cocktail stick to make individual scratches.
For even thicker rust, more wash can be painted on followed by more pigment. Remember do not use too much water, as the pigment will become very soft and could easily be ruined. Each style brush or stick helps to create a different damage and wear effect that has occurred over a number of years. This method offers greater control than the more random effect produced by scratching with wire brushes.
This time the pigments have been stippled onto a base coat of oil paint instead of an enamel wash.. John Murphy 2 This can be sprayed or brush painted onto the part depending on how large the area is that requires painting. This will give the metal an aged and weathered look. Rust washes can now be added to the wooden parts surrounding rust to simulate where it soaked into the wood. Here we show just how simple this is to do. Acetone is perfect for this task as it is especially formulated for degreasing or paint removal.
This is mixed in a ratio of with water into a glass dish or bowl. When they have dried it is clear to see just how excelent the tracks look. Here we show a simple technique that can be used for many different scales and subjects such as military vehicles, railways, ships, buildings, and civilian cars. The type of brush used for dry-brushing is perfect for this. Again think about the angle of these streaks. If they defy gravity, they will look unnatural therefore they will look unrealistic on the model.
Here we can see this same ame effect applied to the exhaust cover on a Tiger ger I. Once the oil paint has been allowed to dry for a few days, further Dust washes or airbrushed dust can be added to help create the overall effect of a hard working US Army supply pp y truck during g WWII. When trying to achieve a realistic rust finish, it is an important part regardless of how extensive you want to go with your model.
These will form the foundation of the general weathering and also the rust effects. Scratches are being added using a very pale cream colour.
Finer scratches and smaller chips using Raw Umber acrylic are now added onto to the pale cream areas to create a three-dimensional scratch effect. It is not critical how they look at the moment, because the next ssteps teps will tone these down considerably.
In this case we use very little paint on the sponge and dap the paint on gently to create these.
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