Drake tr7a manual




















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QXer Instructions. R Service manual. R-4A Manual. R-4B Manual. R-4C Featuring. R-4C Manual. I don't think that's really the problem, but it could be. Definitely try CW with the key closed or jumpered. If it doesn't, there's certainly a problem. He not only knows the rigs inside out, but has probably every single "spare part" Drake ever used, including the blue filters for the PTO dial and S-meter, the "feet" on the bottom, the injection oscillator crystals, the PTOs, and I think everything.

He's a real pro with TR-7s. Check his QRZ lookup page -- wall to wall Drake. And he doesn't charge much to service them and put them back into perfect condition. Edit: I think it's definitely worth making the TR-7 "work. It's not as rock-stable from a cold start as more modern DDS rigs, but give it 15 minutes and it's fine.

Its receiver is almost impossible to overload, the NB-7 noise blanker is "best of breed," its modulation quality on SSB is excellent, and its waveform on CW is just about perfect viewed on a scope.

And as Dave mentioned earlier, you can "open up" the TR-7 to transmit on any frequency from 1. So, it always covered 12m, 17m, 30m and 60m -- for a vintage rig. The only band where we need to be careful to be "on frequency" is 60m On the other bands, a bit of drift doesn't matter. K3XR likes this. I get the drift this thing's an awesome radio in need of a patient mind to figure it out. My problem is, even though I was able to work hard and upgrade to Extra, I am in no way a tech-minded person.

This stuff simply fries my brain after awhile. I get the general theory, can use a soldering gun, etc, but sheesh I just want it to work, y'know? I'll try the jumper thing briefly!! Hopefully I don't light up. I also plan to borrow a dummy load and swr meter and see what other things it can tell me. I picked up a TR-7 split-back about 2 years ago.

It's a rig I wanted way back when it was introduced into the market Fully solid-state! No tune! The example I have was already modified. It was opened for mHz transmit and someone had replaced the incandescent bulbs with cool-blue LEDs. It looks great in the shack! Right after I purchased it I modified it a little more.

An easy Heathkit-ish board to build and easy to tie into the TR Out the box, the TR-7 is very good, but the audio isn't exactly up to today's standard with the stock 2.

I recently added a Sherwood 2. This is a highly recommended MOD for everyone still using the stock filter. You'll do best if you avoid the Drake external speaker - it's an open back design and isn't very good even if you close the back, it's still not very good. One other quirk Its' a freaking tank. I suspect Drake didn't want to stumble out of the gate with the first solid-state rig - so they over-built the thing.

So it's not perfect - there's no speech processor the external one isn't very good - though it really doesn't need one.

The Drake TR7 - a modern classic. I've been wanting one of these ever since I got the TR-4C two years ago. I was discussing it on the air last year during a 20m opening to the US, and a day or so later got an email from Stu, K8ST, who had been listening, saying he had a near-mint condition TR7 with accessories looking for a home. Well, we did the deal and shipped her over - what a beauty! At serial it's quite an early build , and it spent its life no more than five miles from the plant where it was made.

It's hard to explain the appeal of Drakes but somehow the TR7 takes it to a different level. It really isn't a fancy piece of kit, but it represents an epoch change in the design of amateur equipment.

Firstly, it's all semiconductor, one of the first non-tube rigs on the market. And the Sherwood figures really aren't bad for the era, it's up there with the big names of the time in performance. The look of it is almost homebrew, there's no moulded front panel like the Kenwoods used, it's all metal sheet and extrusions, nothing sophisticated.

But the performance for the technology is brilliant. Somehow those guys in Ohio really thought this one through and produced a game-changer that has a functional balance that designers have followed for years since.

Based on limited use so far, sensitivity is good, no stability issues, audio is nice and clean both ways. One noticeable feature is the NB7 noise blanker that absolutely kills pulses from neighbours' electric fencing, it's really effective. Then there's the PBT I run it as a second channel on the Kenwood SP One minor hitch A quick replacement, now there's no problem - I guess it's age, this girl was made nearly forty years ago. She drives my NEC tube amp to legal limit with ease, no problems with the output match at all.

It's not a perfect transceiver compared to modern designs, but it's pretty damn good - and for its era it is superb. I would rather have a TR-7 than any Drake tube radio. One of the all time great older rigs. I could go on and on about how good these are but you get the hint by now. It hears whatever is out there and puts out over watts. Best of all it is user.. Plug in circuit boards and readily available spares means never having to say your sorry you bought it.

If it were a basket case you could sell the good boards for more than the price of the radio. No bad for a 30 year old radio. Just added an L-7 if I need more than watts.

I bought my TR7 new in the late 70's. I got one of the first off the line and still have it. It is and was a very well built American radio. It had no bells and whistles by todays standards. I bought it to use on Mars frequencies. The stability was second to none. TR7 Notch Filter. TR7 New Power Supply. TR7 New Speech Proccessor. TR7 New Up Converter. Drake L4 Power Supply Upgrade. AM Window Drake Mods.

The Radio Lab Works. The Sarrio Co. Drake Manuals. Drake List Home Page. Drake Story Book. Drake 4 Line Service CDs. Drake Virtual Museum. K7ON Drake Page. International Radio Filters. Sherwood Engineering. FineWare Smart R8 Control. W8PU R.



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