The sink pop-up stopper is quite straightforward and we will provide you with detailed instructions and tips to make installing a sink drain easy and leak-free! The first thing that you need to do is get the supplies ready.
The tools and supplies that you will need for the process of installation include:. This is perhaps the most challenging and messy part of the project. The first step is to remove the P-trap from the drain also known as the trap-arm and the sink drain tailpiece. You can use channel-type pliers or an adjustable wrench to loosen the P-trap and remove it. Remember, lefty-loosey or turn the nuts counterclockwise to remove them. The P-trap will have water inside it to prevent sewer gas from wafting up your sink so have a small bucket or container placed underneath the P-trap to catch the contents of the drain.
Once the P-trap is out of the way, you will have better access to remove the old drain assembly. The mounting nut can be removed from the tailpiece using channellock pliers or a wide mouth crescent wrench. You should be left with a washer and a rubber gasket stuck to the bottom of the sink itself.
You can pry the old washer down by hand or with the help of a flat blade screwdriver. Just be cautious as any extra water that is trapped inside the sink is being held back by that rubber gasket. If the gasket is being stubborn you can either push the drain assembly up from the bottom and through the hole in the sink or carefully cut the rubber gasket with a utility knife.
After you have lifted the old drain out of the sink hole, clean the top and bottoms side of the sink. This makes for a flat surface for the new gaskets to seal against. Leftover debris can cause the new gaskets to deform and leak. This is the first step when it comes to installing the shiny and new sink drain. Start by disassembling the drain and removing the mounting nut, washer and gasket from the drain stem. If your new drain assembly comes with a gasket for the topside of the drain that seals it to the sink, slip it up against the drain cup.
Insert the drain assembly through the opening from the top side of the sink. If you have long enough arms, you can hold the drain in place while pushing the rubber gasket up the threaded section of the drain assembly from the bottom side.
Simply lay a towel in the sink to protect the finish and place a heavy object like a book or bowl full of water over the drain. Make sure you install the rubber gasket with the narrowest section against the bottom of the sink. After the rubber gasket has been slid up the drain stem, follow it up by the washer and then the nut.
The washer acts as a friction disk that allows you to spin the nut without affecting the surface of the gasket. This makes for a gasket that seals flat and evenly. The rubber gasket on the bottom of your drain assembly is designed to be installed without the use of silicone caulk or sealant but if you want a little extra leak-free insurance, now is the time to add a thin layer to the rubber washer prior to tightening the drain assembly up.
Make sure the drain cup of the assembly is sitting flat and positioned evenly in the sink hole. There are 13 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed , times. Learn more If your kitchen sink drain is corroded and leaking, installing a new basket strainer is an easy way to solve the problem. Then, tighten the nut with a basket wrench to secure it in place.
Tip: If there is water leaking out of the basket strainer, one of the connections may be loose. Turn off the sink, tighten the brass tailpiece and the plastic connector, and test the water again.
For more advice, like how to test your new drain, read on! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet?
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Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Choose a drain assembly kit that fits your sink.
A drain assembly kit will contain a basket strainer, locking nut, rubber washer, friction ring, and a brass tailpiece to connect the the drain to the drainpipes.
From underneath the sink, I added the rubber ring , by first adding a dab of silicone to the threads to help it twist on smoothly. I can now attach the last part of the pop-up drain assembly, which includes a rubber ring that will create a seal with this smooth metal pipe. I simply swab the inside of the trap adapter with some cement and do the same for the outside of the drain, making sure to fully coat both surfaces, then push on the adapter, all the way in, giving it a slight twisting motion, roughly a quarter turn.
All of these parts typically come in the kit: the waste drain, two plastic or rubber washers, and two slip joint nuts. Start by connecting the 2 black pipes. You simply slip a nut onto the waste drain and press it against the other pipe, then hand tighten the nut. No washers are required here. Next, find the washer that will fit onto the drain under the sink.
There are 2 different nuts on the P-trap—one directly underneath the drain and another on the back of the piece near the wall. These are designed to be screwed and unscrewed manually. Use your pliers to unscrew the metal nut at the bottom of the drain. Clamp the pliers down on the nut and twist it in a counterclockwise direction to the left. Finish unscrewing it by hand, then slip it off the bottom of the drain assembly. Slide off the rubber gasket around the waste pipe. This piece sits between the nut holding the drain in place and the underside of the sink basin.
To get it out of the way, simply take hold of the edges and pull it down around the drain pipe until it comes free. If you encounter resistance, use your pliers to get a better grip. Set the nut and gasket aside and try not to lose track of them.
Remove the drain from the top side of the sink. Push up on the exposed waist pipe to begin lifting it out of the sink. Then, grab it from inside the basin and pull it out the rest of the way. Set the old drain on a nearby towel or sheet of newspaper.
Wind the strip around the outside of the drain hole and press it down flat with your fingertips. Press the flange straight down into the putty firmly until it stops moving. Reassemble the neighboring plumbing components. Slip the rubber gasket over the waist pipe to seal the connection, then slide on the metal securing nut and tighten it with your pliers. Fit the P-trap back into place beneath the waist pipe and tighten both slip nuts by hand.
All done! Doing so could place unnecessary strain on them, causing them to crack over time. Method 2. Loosen the coupling nut with a pair of slip-joint pliers or pipe wrench.
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